Khartphu (approx. 7250m) (Chinese spelling: Kardapu or Khadhaphu)
Only recorded ascent: July 18, 1935 by Eric Shipton, Edw. Kempson, & Charles Warren from the British Everest Reconnaisance Expedition, route up "Sportman" Glacier off E. Rongbuk Glacier, to NW Ridge.
Refs: Kharta Himal, alpine monograph by Jan Kielkowski, 1999, pgs. 3-5, 8, 12
High Asia, Jill Neate (1989, The Mountaineers), pg. 47
The Alpine Club's Himalayan Index, http://www.alpine-club.org.uk/hi/index.htm
Mount Everest - The Reconnaissance 1935 :The Forgotten Adventure, Tony Astill (2005,
self-published hardback), pgs. 194-5
Listed on table of "Newly opened peaks in Tibet", Mountain INFO/High Magazine 138, March 1994, pg. 8
General Plan
Approach from Old Tingri over Pang La to village of Kharta, then trek through Kharta Chu, perhaps a base camp near the Kharta Tso. Reconnaissance of N. Face and East Ridge from glacier leading up to Khartachangri Pass, and SE Face and East Ridge from Kharta Glacier, as well as facet between these glaciers. This will also hopefully allow for adequate acclimatization.
Some Initial Questions
- Ask Dan if he has ever heard of folks climbing the peak (SO many people over on the E. Rongbuk)?
- Permit fee (& where the heck can you find a list of permitted peaks in Tibet)?
- Cheaper to approach from Chengdu/Lhasa, or from Kathmandu/Zhangmu?
- Pre- or post-monsoon (I've only been over there pre-monsoon)?
Maps
Astill (2005)
http://www.mapsworldwide.com/sku_14919.htm
Excellent scans of maps: http://www.jansalpines.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=20783&g2_GALLERYSID=c6cde5e6772b2c6ca51e3b4bbd628cea
Great site with maps & links to many photo sets of the area: http://www.himalaya-info.org/Map%20khumbu_nord.htm ; main site is excellent: http://www.himalaya-info.org/index.htm
http://www.himalaya-info.org/Map%20khumbu_nord.htm
Photos
Of the Rongbuk/Kharta watersheds: http://www.flickr.com/photos/steynard/page106/ to /page121
Trekking in: http://www.flickr.com/photos/mistressb/page89/ to
From the recent Pethangtse ascent up the regular S side route: http://pethangtse.wordpress.com/page/2/
Possible itinerary from Lhasa: http://www.explore-himalaya.com/tibetlhakpariclimb24days.php