My Climbs
All ascents were done by routes technically harder (more interesting!) than
the 'normal' route - ascents by 'normal' routes are indicated with this term.
Descent by same route unless otherwise noted (indicating, then, a traverse).
Himalaya
--------
Tibetan Trans-Himalaya
Nojin Kansa (Ninjing Kansha), 7200M - 5th ascent
SW Ridge (V,AI3), across Kara Gl. firn to S. Face of summit
pyramid, Mar. 21, 2002 w. Pemba; First American ascent
(Chinese, Tibetans, & Japanese had made only prev. ascents). Most
of route exploration done with Jon Otto
Manang Himal of the Damodar Himal
Chulu West, 6250m, couloir to SE Ridge, AD, Apr. 1997, solo
(self-organized trip)
Khumbu Himal of the Mahalangur Himal
'False' Mera Peak, 6476m
Normal Mera Gl. route, May 6, 1997, solo, PD
Imja Tse, 6189m
Normal SE flank to SW Ridge, PD, May 1997 w. Ian Hatchett
Lobuje East foresummit, 6000m
Normal S. Ridge route, AD-, May 1997 w. Ian Hatchett
(All done on a self-organized trip)
Alps
----
Walliser (Pennine) Alps
Ofenhorn
N. Ridge/SE Face traverse, AD-, Aug. 31 2007, solo
Dents de Perroc
W. Ridge, AD, Sep. 3 2007, solo
La Luette
S. Ridge integrale, PD+, Sep. 5 2007, solo
Mont Blanc de Cheilon
W Ridge to SW Ridge (voie normale), PD+, Sep. 6 2007, solo
Almagellerhorn, 3327m
S. Face, F, descent of SE Ridge, 5.5, June 29-30, 1996
w. Pete Nolan
Kanzilti, 3308m
NW Ridge/SE Ridge traverse, June 29-30, 1996 w. Pete Nolan
Plattenhorn, 3324m
NW Ridge, traverse fr. Almagellerhorn, descent of N. Face,
June 29-30, 1996 w. Pete Nolan
Fletschhorn, 3993m
Normal W. Face/NW Ridge, PD, July 3, 1996 w. Pete Nolan
Lagginhorn, 4010m
W. Ridge, PD, July 4, 1996 w. Pete Nolan
Weissmies, 4023m
SE Ridge, PD 5.3, July 17, 1995, solo
Dom, 4545m
Festigrat, PD+, July 1991, solo
Alphubel, 4206m
Rotgrat, AD, July 1991, solo
Rimpfischhorn, 4199m
N. Ridge, AD, descent by normal WSW Ridge, July 8, 1993
w. Pete Nolan
Monte Rosa, 4634m
Grenzgl. to S. Ridge over Grenzgipfel, AD, July 1990, solo
Cresta Rey attempt (partner pooped out), July 5, 1993
w. Pete Nolan
Breithorn, 4164m
Normal SSW Flank, then 1km traverse, descent of S. Flank, PD-,
July 1990, solo
Trifthorn, 3728m
Normal NE Ridge, PD-, July 23, 2000, solo
Zinalrothorn, 4221m
Normal SE Ridge/Gabel Notch/SW Ridge, AD-, July 20, 1996, solo
N. Ridge attempt (partner pooped out @ 4000m), solo to the Rasoir,
PD+, July 24, 2000
Besso, 3668m
SW Ridge, PD 5.6, descent of SE Ridge & S. Flank, July 25, 2000,
w. Patrick (a Frenchman)
Grand Combin, 4314m
W. Ridge attempt (partner pooped out) to 4000m, PD+ 5.5,
July 11, 1996
Mettelhorn, 3406m
Normal S. side route, F, July 1990, solo
Urner Alpen
Gwaechtenhorn
W. Ridge to E. glacier traverse, AD-, Aug. 2006, solo
Massif du Mont Blanc
Rochefort Arete, 1km fr. Dent du Geant, PD, fr. Col du Geant,
July 9, 1996, w. Pete Nolan
Mexico
------
Popocatepetl, 5452m
Normal Las Cruces route to W. Face, F, May 26, 1991, solo
Ventorillo, PD, 30deg. ice, Dec. 1, 1991 w. Gary Macie
Glaciar del Norte, PD+, 40deg ice, Nov. 27, 1993, solo
Iztaccihuatl, 5286m
Explored Ayoloco route to 4680m
Selkirk Mountains
-----------------
Mt. Sir Donald, 3297m
NW Ridge (III, 5.4) attempt (stormed off @ 3100m), solo
Rocky Mountains
---------------
Canada
Mt. Temple, 3543m, S. Face, descent by SW Ridge (normal route),
PD-, solo
Bident Mtn, 3084m, NE Shoulder & N. Face, solo, AD (first entry in
summit log in 5 yrs)
Mt. Athabasca, 3491m, Silverhorn (N. Face), PD, descent of normal N.
Gl., solo
Mt. Kitchener, 3480m, E. Ridge, solo, PD
Mt. Edith Cavell, 3363m, E. Ridge, III 5.3, solo
Wyoming
Teton Range
Grand Teton, 13770ft.
Upper Exum Ridge, 5.4, (then normal descent route) w. Pete Nolan,
Sep.15, 1992
Complete Exum Ridge, 5.7, (then normal descent route), w. Spencer
Mathews, Aug. 2001
Mt. Owen, 12928ft.
E. Ridge, II 5.6, Aug. 2001 w. Forest Hursey
Middle Teton, 12804ft.
Middle Teton Gl. to Dike Col (50 deg. ice), then E. Face, 5.4,
Sep. 17, 1992 w. Pete Nolan
Teewinot, 12325ft.
E. Face, III 5.5, w. Pete Nolan, Sep. 20, 1992
Colorado
Front Range
Rocky Mtn. Natl. Park
Ypsilon Mtn., 13514 ft.
Y Couloir, R branch, stormed off, July 1, 1992, solo
Blitzen Ridge (3 of 4 Aces Direct), III 5.6, S. Face descent,
Sep. 2001 w. Pete Nolan, 5.6
Zowie, w. Pete Nolan, 6 pitches, II 5.8+, then descent of normal S.
Ridge/Gully
Sharkstooth, 12630+, NE Ridge, 7 pitches, 5.6, then descent of normal
E. Gully, w. Pete Nolan, Sep. 2001
Taylor Pk, 13153 ft
Taylor Gl., 70 deg. snow, II, July 5, 1992, solo
McHenry's Pk, 13327 ft
S. Ridge, steep snow, III 5.6, Sep. 1996 w. Pete Nolan
Spearhead, 12575 ft
N. Ridge, III 5.6, descent of normal NW Slopes, Sep. 1996 w.
Pete Nolan
Long's Peak, 14255 ft.
Keyhole Ridge, II 5.5, approached via Trough fr. Glacier
Gorge, descent via normal Keyhole Route to Trough, Sep. 1996
w. Pete Nolan
Kiener's Route, III 5.5, approached via Lamb's Slide, descent
via N. Face to the Camel, Aug. 1998 w. Pete Nolan
Mt. Meeker, 13911 ft
Dreamweaver Couloir, descent via the Loft, solo, July 3, 1992
W. Ridge fr. Lamb's Slide, Aug. 1998 w. Pete Nolan
Indian Peaks
Apache Pk., 13441ft.
Isabelle Gl. & W. Face to NE Ridge, 5.5, descent of Apache
Couloir, Aug. 12, 2001 w. Marquess Lewis
Navaho Pk., 13409ft.
Navaho Gl. to W. Face, steep snow, II 5.5, Aug. 13, 2001, solo
Mt. Audobon, 13223ft.
SE Face couloir, steep snow, May 1994
Mt. Neva
N. Face, II AD, July 2005, solo: technically interesting climb!
James Pk, 13284ft.
'Shooting Star Couloir' on E. Face, 50deg. snow, Cl.4, descent
of normal SE slope, July 2002 w. Paul & Matt Corridon
Challenger Glacier, II STEEP snow, July 2005 w. Kathleen Fuchs
Honest-to-God glacier in Colorado!
Torrey's Pk, 14267ft.
Dead Dog Couloir (E. Face), II, steep snow, descent of normal
S. slope, May 29, 1993
E. Face Couloir (S of summit), June 2002 w. Pete Nolan
N. Face, II 5.5 AI2, (descent of NW Ridge), June 2005, solo
Kelso Ridge, II 5.6 variation, Sep. 2013, solo
Gray's Pk., 14270ft.
N. Ridge on traverse fr. Torrey's, II Cl.2, descent of normal
N. slope, May 29, 1993, solo
Pike's Pk., 14110ft.
NW flank, F, June 12, 1992, solo
'The Citadel', 13294ft.
NE Face, steep snow, 5.3, descent over SE summit & ridge,
July 2001 w. Kathleen Fuchs
Mt. Guyot, 13370ft
SE Ridge, Cl.2, July 2001 w. Kathleen Fuchs
Sawatch Range
Mt. of the Holy Cross, 14005ft.
'Angelica' Couloir (W end of N. Face), PD, June 17, 1992, solo
Central Rib of N. Face, 5.8+, Sep. 15, 2001, roped solo (possible
first ascent, research needed)
Upper Cross Couloir, 2002 w. Pete Nolan
Holy Cross Ridge, N. face couloir to col then E. Ridge,
2002 w. Pete Nolan
Pt. 13786, above Tuhare Lks
Ramp across N. Face to N. Ridge, II 5.6, steep snow, descent via E.
ridge & couloir off the ridge, June 2005, solo
Mt. Massive, 14421ft.
N->S 1 Mile Traverse of all 14000+ft. points fr. NE snowfield
(all ice in 2002) - Pts. 14169, 14340 (N. Massive), 14300 (Massive
Green), & 14132 (S. Massive) in add. to main summit, Jul. 4, 2002
w. Pete Nolan
La Plata Pk., 14336ft.
Rightmost couloir of N. Face to upper perm. snowfield (all ice
in 2002), Jul. 2002 w. Paul & Matt Corridon
Gold Dust Pk
E. Spur of N. Summit, 5.7, & traverse to main summit, descent of S Ridge, Aug 2013,
solo (possible 1st ascent)
Mosquito Range
Quandary Pk., 14265ft.
Inwood Arete, II 5.4, July 2000 w. Kathleen Fuchs, descent via
W. Ridge, then down to the N.
Fletcher Mtn, 13951ft.
Normal W. Ridge, Cl. 3, July 8, 1992, solo
N. Face Couloir, 40 deg. snow, traverse of N. Ridge, 5.8, solo
July 2000
'Atlantic Pk', 13841ft
S. Ridge on traverse fr. Fletcher Mtn., Cl. 4, descent by
N.Face, July 2000, solo
Pacific Pk, 13950ft
E. Ridge, Cl. 4, Jul. 9, 1992
N. Face, possible new route, II 5.6 STEEP snow, June 2005, solo
2 8-pitch rock climbs on N. Face of E. Ridge, possible new routes,
II 5.8, descent via snow couloirs, July 2005, w. Pete Nolan
'Drift Pk', c. 13900ft
NW Face, II 5.5, steep snow, descent via W. Face, June 2005, solo
San Juan Range
Mt. Wilson, 14246ft.
N. Face, II 5.4, July 12, 1994 w. Pete Nolan
Mt. Sneffels, 14150ft.
Snake Couloir (N. Face), III, 40-50 degree snow/ice,
July 14, 1994 w. Pete Nolan
Sangre De Cristo Range
Crestone Pk, 14294ft.
N. Buttress, II 5.5, descent of normal S. Face, Aug. 1998
w. Pete Nolan
Broken Hand, 13573ft.
N. Face, II 5.5, Aug. 1998 w. Pete Nolan
Humboldt Pk, 14064ft
Normal W. Ridge, II Cl. 2, Aug. 1998 w. Pete Nolan
Blanca Pk, 14345ft.
Ormes Buttress (N. Face), III 5.6, descent of W. Ridge,
Sep. 18, 2001, solo
Ellingwood Pt., 14042ft.
E. Ridge, Cl. 4, on traverse fr. Blanca Pk, descent of
N. Ridge (5.6), Sep. 18, 2001, solo
Sacramento Mts, New Mexico
Sierra Blanca, 12002ft.
N. Ridge, F, Mar. 1995, solo
Guadalupe Mts., TX/NM
Guadalupe Pk, 8749ft., Cl. 1, Dec. 31, 1996
El Capitan, 8085ft. Cl. 3, traverse fr. Guadalupe Pk., solo
Dec. 31, 1996
Cascade Mountains
-----------------
Mt. Baker, 3285m
Easton Gl., Aug. 1990 during alpine skills course
Mt. Shuksan, 2782m
Fisher Chimneys & Hourglass Var., III 5.3, July 26, 1992
Mt. Adams, 3742m
N. Face of NW Ridge, II, 45 deg. ice, descent of N. Ridge (yuk!),
Aug. 2, 1992, solo
Mt. Hood, 11239ft.
Reid Gl. Headwall, III 5.5, descent of normal S. side, solo
July 18, 1992
Mt. Shasta, 14162ft.
Hotlum Gl. Headwall Ice Gully, III 5.6 50 deg. ice, solo
Aug. 8, 1992
Casaval Ridge, IV, 5.4 (skipped some pinnacles), solo
June 23-24, 2003
W. Lobe Hotlum Gl, III, 35 degs., w. John & Mathew Wikswo
June 28, 2003
Sierra Nevada
-------------
North Palisade, 14242ft.
Clyde Couloir Direct, sections of vertical ice, IV, descent of
U Notch Couloir, June 21, 1997, solo
Mt. Sill, 14162ft.
Swiss Arete, III 5.7+, descent of N. Couloir, June 22, 1997, solo
Thunderbolt Pk, 14003ft.
NE Buttress, III, snow, 5.8 summit monolith, June 23, 1997, solo
Norman Clyde Pk
E. Ridge variation, snow, 5.7, June 2006, solo
Middle Palisade
Var. to Clyde Rt to E. Rib, AI3, 5.6, June 2006 w. Pete Nolan
Mt. Tallac
E. Ridge, 5.7 & upper snow field to summit, June 2013, solo
Rock Climbing Areas
-------------------
Texas
Enchanted Rock, Hueco Tanks, Pt. of Rocks
West Virginia
Seneca Rocks, New River Gorge, Nelson Rocks
Colorado
Eldorado Canyon, Flatirons, Boulder Canyon, Lumpy Ridge
Nevada
Red Rock Canyon
Virginia
Little Stoney Man, Raven's Roost, Love Gap, Old Rag Mtn., White Rock
California
Needles, Yosemite,Tahquitz Rock, Mission Gorge, Mt. Woodson, Williamson Rock
Connecticut
Ragged Mtn.
Wisconsin
Devil's Lake
Wyoming
Tetons, Old Main Wall of the Snowy Range
Switzerland
Grimsel Pass
Ice Climbing
------------
Pinnacle Gully, Mt. Washington, White Mts, New Hampshire
Shoestring Gully, Mt. Willard, White Mts, New Hampshire
Cinema Gully
Standard Rt, Frankenstein Cliff, White Mts, New Hampshire
Various spots in the Adirondack Mts., New York: Chapel Pond area,
Roaring Brook Falls, Chapel Pond Canyon, N. Face of Pitchoff,
Multiplication Gully, Whiteface Mt.
Various places in Virginia Blue Ridge: White Oak Canyon, Crabtree
Falls, other spots (exploration yields results!)